What I See On My Way To Work
My life has changed dramatically this past month… I’ve gone from a full-time parent and weekend chef to, as of the beginning of September, working in one of the oldest and most esteemed restaurants in Paris. However, it was not nearly so easy. Leaving my loving family was by far the most difficult thing I have ever done in my life. After months of planning, the flood of emotions and tears was so great that I almost couldn’t leave at the last minute.
As I walk to the metro station from where I live in the 10e arrondissement, I go over the Canal Saint-Martin, a beautiful canal lined with shops, restaurants, and promenades.
I have been working for four weeks now in my new job at Le Grand Véfour. These photos show different views I have during my daily commute to work.
Looking the other way, you can see the M2 going between Colonel Fabien and Jaurès. But I walk a little further to the M7, which is an overall quicker commute to the restaurant.
I was extremely nervous and anxious about my first day. I had worked in France many years ago in Megève at Le Chalet du Mont d’Arbois, so I had a good sense of what I could expect. But I could never be too sure. Every kitchen is different, in one way or another.
My metro station, Louis Blanc, on the M7, which I take to Pyramides.
Monday, August 30 at 8:00 am, we hit the ground running. There were nearly twenty cooks, most of them giving big hugs to each other, since the restaurant had been closed for the whole month of August for their annual holiday. There were towering boxes of produce sitting by the front door as we entered, and we all grabbed an armful as we went inside and descended down the steep stairs into the basement kitchen.
As I pop out of the metro station at Pyramides, I immediately cross the street, with this view of the Opéra to my left.
I received a quick handshake from the Chef de Cuisine and the Sous Chef, but otherwise, I was completely ignored. Everyone was immediately rushing about. In that moment all I knew was to stay busy… even if I didn’t know what I was supposed to be doing.
Working my way down little streets toward the back entrance of the Palais-Royal, I usually just walk down the middle of the road, since cars rarely drive here. There's a little Korean (Coréen) restaurant barely visible on the left.
I grabbed a box of tomatoes and headed into the walk-in fridge. “Don’t ever bring those boxes in here.” “D’accord,” I replied and quickly whisked it back outside. As I returned, I realized that someone was now in my place, and there was no more counter space, so I placed my box on the ground. “Don’t ever put produce boxes on the floor. “D’accord,” and I wandered around a little until I found another spot.
I walk up Rue de Richelieu, through Place Mirielle, with this view to my back. The red fish sign on the left is Matsuri Sushi Bar.
I looked around and saw everyone else filling certain plastic boxes with the produce, so I went to grab one, and started to fill it with my tomatoes. “Don’t ever use the grey boxes for that. They are only for meats. Use only white boxes.” “D’accord,” and I changed my box. I was only being told what not to do, instead of what to do. But I kept looking around to see what everyone else was doing and did everything to keep myself busy.
I walk through the tiny Passage Beaujolais (referring to Rue Beaujolais in the distance), which gets me right to the restaurant. This is a private way, which closes at 9pm, so I have to go a different way home.
In my entire cooking career, I have always worked in the manner by which each person at every station is responsible for the preparation, cooking, and plating of everything for the dish from their station, from beginning to end.
Further into the Passage Beaujolais, you can see a produce delivery van, directly across from Le Grand Véfour.
However, the stations are broken down differently here, and cooks are much more specialized in their tasks. Myself, being both the foreigner and the newbie, am on Garde Manger, of course – the beginners’ station. There are three of us here: two Commis de Cuisine (another cook and myself), and the Chef de Partie, who is in charge of the station. We make all the amuse bouches and cold appetizers.
Looking back up to the passageway, with the restaurant directly to my back, this is in the top left corner of the Palais-Royal area.
Then there is Entremétier, which also has three cooks (two Commis and a Chef de Partie), who do all the hot appetizers and vegetable side dishes. Then there is the Poissonnier, and all he does is receiving, cleaning, and cooking the fish. Right now we have monkfish, turbot, sole, langoustines, lobsters, bass, and frog legs (OK, that’s not a fish…). He never touches any other products.
A view of the restaurant, with the Jardin du Palais-Royal in the distance. The one door you see, is the only entrance/exit for the entire restaurant (all service and kitchen staff, deliveries, and dining guests). You can also see the reflection of the produce delivery van in the window.
Then there is Garniture Poisson. He prepares all the accompanying components that will be served with all the fish dishes, and does the plating during service. The Poissonnier and Garniture Poisson work in sync, so that their products are being finished at the same time. Nothing ever waits for anything.
Closer up, you can see the Relais & Châteaux Relais Gourmand insignia, as well as "Maison Fondée En 1760," where it has been a restaurant ever since.
Then there is Viande and Garniture Viande, which work just like the Poissonnier, but for all the meats. One cook handles all the meat products, the sauces made from them, and nothing else, and another cook handles all the accompaniments to the meat dishes and does the final plating during service.
Walking home at night is a little different, going down the Palais-Royal portico to the Palais-Royal/Musée de Louvre metro station. The restaurant is at the very end of this passageway.
Then there is a Chef Tournant, who simply goes around to each station helping out as needed, during prep time and service. And finally there is the Pâtisserie, with its Chef Pâtissière, Sous Chef Pâtissière, and two Commis, but that’s a whole different world, altogether!
Just a few steps to the right, and I'm in the Jardin du Palais-Royal, with it's perfectly lined and pruned trees.
All in all, there are fifteen people cooking, and with our Sous Chef, Chef de Cuisine, and Guy Martin, it brings it to eighteen in the kitchen during service. In such a confined space, it gets extremely crowded. No one can move without having someone else move out of the way for you. But it’s a little dance, which I have been doing for a long time already. As long as you’re working as hard as possible and moving as fast as possible, you have the right of way, and they’ll move.
A few more steps to the right, with a different perspective of the perfectly lined trees. The restaurant is immediately at the end of these trees.
Moreover, anyone plating has immediate right of way, and you make your way around them. It’s interesting to have had my chefs move out of my way when I was plating. It definitely let me know that I was doing something right. And with such close proximities, their eyes are glued on all the cooks, especially me, the newbie American. But so far, I haven’t heard a word. And in this world, where it’s simply your job to excel and produce incredible dishes, no news is good news.
And again, a few more steps to the right to see the center of the Jardin du Palais-Royal, with the beautifully manicured gardens and water fountain further in the distance. This is where I usually take my work breaks, when there's not enough time to walk down to the Seine.
There is only one seating and service moves throughout the kitchen in a big wave. Garde Manger gets hit first with amuse bouches and the cold dishes. Then it’s Entremétier, then Poissonnier, then Viande, and finally Pâtisserie.
Endless lines of columns, wherever I look, are just part of my daily commute to and from work. There are throngs of tourists everywhere, all the time. I am still getting used to the fact that I am not a tourist. Although I am quickly reminded of that during my 16-hour work days.
We have about an hour to crank out our dishes and then we’re basically done. Since my Chef de Partie is in charge of the station, he must stay and maintain the station at all times. But me, a Commis de Cuisine (“kitchen helper”), I am required to roam the kitchen and help out as needed.
The Palais-Royal/Musée de Louvre metro station is the most uniquely decorated, probably since it's right next to the Louvre. Here I go down, and take the M7 home, for a quick night's "nap" before getting up and doing it all over again.
Peter, This was a most fascinating read, thank you so much. How do you have the time?
Marc’s and my love of food may equal yours, but our trend is back to the farm (we are looking in southern GA)and yours to one of the finest restaurants in the world! Remember to breath and all the very best in your new adventure!
Maria Ferrante
Hi Peter, this is the best blog I ever read (I am too busy to read friends’ blogs and never do). Your pics are great too – excellent composition and very very relevant to your situation – I think you may not know I teach art photo here and in France (see my website above – I teach under another professional name). I am amazed you managed to write at all! It must be exhausting and my greatest admiration on getting this job and at such an esteemed place. The only thing missing is you should sign your name on the first page as people may not be able to identify you immediately unless you know them well. I am sending a friend who is a professor of medicine from Ohio who is in Paris this week to your restauarant and hope he dines there. I will be in Paris next month for Thanksgiving week. Take care. Regis
Wonderful blog Peter! Thanks for keeping us up-to-date. We are keeping Ginhee in line – not an easy task – not quite sure how you did it
Only kidding of course she is the best!
Peter,
WOW!! Great read, so interesting. Best of luck to you on your new adventure. Keep the blog going, it’s great!
Draga Peter,
HOW WONDERFUL to be able to share, in this little way, your Paris cooking adventures! It is so truly priceless. I have every confidence that you will soon be more than a just a humble kitchen helper, with all your experience, talent and passion for cooking! THANKS so much for letting me share in your life.
We all wish you the VERY BEST “bon chance!” (That’s French for GOOD LUCK!- I think)
Hugs and kisses,
Anna
Oui Chef.
I love it!!!!!!!!! Keep going Peter.
Come che nu en France.
Peter,
So good to hear from you again! I enjoyed reading your blog very much and I am amazed at the adventure you chose to undertake. What hard work!!! I love the photos and can’t wait for the next posting! You’ll have to let us know about some of the wonderful places you try there. Best of luck!
Regards,
Donna
Peter,
I have never had so much contact with you — I am seeing videos of the boys from Ginhee — DEElightful … and your tres interresant blog.
I never knew there were such specializations in the kitchen. I have seen a few films that included SOME of this info –
I am jealous of your French knowledge and impressed with ALL the rest from the pix to the commis, etc.
Hope you can keep it coming.
kk
Dear Peter,
Congratulations on your new venture in Paris! I am so jealous of the pretty views on your way to work. I just got back from a summer in working as a private chef in the south of France, a whole other world in terms of cooking. I know that you will eat this experience up and I hope you continue to share all of the details with us. Please tell me, how is your French? Do you use it in the kitchen?
Minnie
HI Peter!
Great to read your posts…. Thanks for sharing this exciting next chapter of your life. Especially like your pictures. I was part of a group cooking class at Cambridge last Spring: I was impressed with the way you managed our group of amateurs (easier to herd wild cats!) Garde Manger should be ‘pas de problem’ with your skill. I am preparing to go to France to stay in the Perigord (Sarlat0 for a week, cooking and taking a look around: foie gras producers, wine makers, truffles… will be in Paris before and after; at this date wonder if it is too late to reserve a table @ Le Rest. Vefours? Best Wishes, Cynthia
Peter, such an enjoyable read! A fascinating peek behind the scenes…I shared the link on facebook. Love hearing about your new adventure. Keep it coming!
Hi,
Madelaine Kamman from Annecy was my brillian gifted teacher…I was not any of those!
I do love “great food” that takes ingredients to a height almost unimaginable to the un-instucted.
SAlly
Thanks for sharing Peter– I know it must take much of your very precious time, but we appreciate being able to follow your growth as an incredible chef! I’m honored to be able to watch it!
All the best, we’re so excited for you!
Tanya & Luke
Fascinating insight into your current life, Peter. Especially impressive knowing what little free time you have to sleep much less to write. Sounds like quite the adventure you’re embarking on ! So proud and happy for you .. you’ve come such a long way. I still remember the first meal you cooked for me, “roomie” .. I’ll refrain from rehashing all those memories lol Congratulations again on your awesome opportunity and best of luck to you with everything ! I know Ginhee & the boys couldn’t be prouder of you. Take care of yourself.
xoxo,
Polly
This is great, Peter! Thanks for sending this to us to keep up with this exciting & unique time for you.
Love the pics & the insider info about how the kitchen works.
Hugs,
Hillary